Airplane!

I had planned to write this one final blog to talk about how hard it was for me to leave Musanzi and my Rwandan/MGVP family...but I think after my traveling adventures I will have to focus on those for all of your entertainment.

Early Thursday morning, I said my sad goodbyes to the MGVP dogs and then Jan helped me load up the truck and drove me to the bus station.  I kept double checking my room thinking I was forgetting something...I suddenly realized it wsa just a part of me being left behind.  I really consider the Gorilla Doctors to be an extended family and am very sad I could not stay longer.

Jan and Julie (and another volunteer and a phd student) took me out for a fantastic last evening.  We had wine at Virunga Lounge and then dinner at Gorilla Hotel where I pigged out on my fav. goat cheese balls with honey and pili pili chicken.  Julie then was able to convince the hotel to sell me a bottle (she supplied the bottle) of their homemade pili pili (super hot sauce) which she bought as my goodbye gift so I can now share the hotness of Rwanda : )

saying goodbye to Danny the wheelchair dog and Dallas the volunteer

I had decided to take the bus to Kigali (about a 2 hour bus ride but $3 vs. $100 for a car) and thank goodness one of our local coworkers was also planning on heading to town that morning.  JP was kind enough to help me get my ticket and get organized.  The only problem going with JP was that I would have to leave early and sit in the airport alone for several hours.  Fine.  I could deal with that.  Unfortunately, my bags were quite large for the bus and they really pack people on these things.  Nobody was happy with the white girl and her bags, but JP took care of everything for me. 

I was finally starting to calm down and settle in for the 2 hour ride, the driver decided he needed to pee on the side of the road...so everyone else had to do the same...my bags had to be unloaded and reloaded again annoying everyone so that the doors could open and close properly.  Back on the bus, and into Kigali we went, only to be stopped at a checkpoint, where, yup, you guessed it, off the bus at gunpoint we went while JP saved me again by explaining that the bags were mine and not to be searched etc etc....When we finally reached the bus station and managed to track down our friend's driver, I could not have been more relieved.

My flight did not leave until 3:45, but I was at the airport at 11am.  I had to manage my two huge bags and my backpack and small bag since it was too early to check luggage..and of course I had to pee.  I finally found a nice french guy who stayed with my stuff while I ran to the bathroom.  I was able to entertain myself with the free internet and some books but was quite happy to be on my way when the time came!

My first flight stopped in Entebbe first, where we somehow got an hour behind...which then meant in Addis Ethiopia, my flight was boarding when i was deplaning.  I ran very quickly throught the whole airport and did manage to make it although I was fairly certain my bags would not.  I was happily settled in my seat and catching my breath when an African man about my age sat next to me. He was wearing what I like to refer to as the fancy African suit...white with silver designs and pointy shoes. I began to read To Kill  A Mockingbird which I had somehow never read but borrowed from the MGVP library when I found a card that Jan had sneakily put in there when I wasnt looking...as I read her note to me, I tried not to cry but was really trying to figure out how and when I could get back to Musanzi as soon as possible.

As if this were not enough adventure...it gets better.  I am a nervous flier anyways, not from fear of crashing, but from fear of weird people and this flight proved my worst fears.  The flight attendant began serving drinks, and I guess the guy next to me realized some of the wine was free, so he got a bottle of red...then the flight attendant walked away leaving her cart unattended as this guy grabbed several more bottles.  Dinner was served moments later along with another bottle...and several more that this guy decided he needed.  I thought, hmm, this guy likes to party..ok...

My chicken was completely raw, so I skipped dinner and just went to bed.  I normally cannot sleep on planes, but somehow I was out.  I awoke as we hit the ground in Rome for a refuel...only my wake up was disturbed by the noise to my left...yup, this joker was vomiting all over me.  Not just all over me, but he was kind enough to have put down his seatback tray so that the splatter hit everywhere.  I noticed 7-8 empty bottles clanging around that he had downed before I passed out (in under 35 min!)

At this point, I assumed I was dreaming an awful dream and that this could not possibly be happening.  I looked around searching for eye contact of someone who would see my plight..all i saw were people getting up to use the bathroom and stretch their legs. I was trapped in the window seat.  I hit the flight attendant call button over and over and over for about 10 minutes to no avail.  Just when I was really beginning to think I must have gone around the bend, a very nice guy returning from a mission came running back and said he had seen everything and had found an attendant who was on her way.  Meanwhile, this took another 10 min...during which Mr. Drinker McDrinkerson had passed out face first in his tray of loveliness.  I couldnt even speak a word.  The mission guy saw my internal struggle that at this point had to have been very clear and he asked for my bags which I happily handed over.  He then helped me to jump over this guy to get into the aisle...I do have to admit, although I was very calm, it took all of my restraint to not kick this guy in the head as I lept over him.  Fortunately, I had been completely wrapped in a very nice blanket that my dear friend Kyla had given me before my trip, so that mostly protected me except for my shoes and bottom of my pants....

When the Ethiopian Airlines ever efficient attendant finally made her appearance, there was not much she could do.  I was fine at this point b/c it was all over and I figured they would just re seat me.  I hung out around the bathroom area and watched two people dragthis man to the bathroom with his bags to change, as his fancy suit was completely ruined ( as were both seats and the floor.)  I asked where she would reseat me and she said sorry, full flight, nowhere else for me to go.  Some other gentlemen who were also on missions, that were standing near me kept saying that they couldnt believe how calm I was.  I just kept simply saying, well, I cannot sit there is this man's vomit and disease, so Ill just wait until you find me something.  They hadnt lied, there really werent any other seats...I looked believe me!  Meanwhile, they brought in industrial cleaners to attempt to clean the seat.  I asked if they were kicking him off the plane (nobody was getting off- just a refuel) and they said no, they saw no reason to.  I said well, I am absolutely not sitting there.  Now, all of this time, I wondered if these ladies knew how fortunate they were to be dealing with me rather than most other people who would have been yelling profanities at this point....I got my answer when the attendant said no, but you can certainly get off.  I said I would be happy to if she was putting me up for the evening and paying for my first class ticket home in the morning.  She walked away in a huff...at which point I pulled down the fold away attendant seat and strapped myself in.  I said, well, i may not have a TV, but im quite happy to sit here!  While the other passengers found this amusing...the attendants did not.  They insisted the seat was clean and I was to return immediately or be kicked off the plane.  Please understand, I am not tooting my own horn here, but I honestly had not been rude or had an attitude other than the comment about them putting me up in a hotel.  I had not even raised my voice or caused a scene at all.  Those around me continues to tell me they could not believe how nice I was being.

Under threat of being "booted" off the Ethiopian airplane (no pun intended) I did feel my cheeks get a little hot and I was determined that I was not moving.  The original guy who had helped me must have seen that I was about to lose my up to then calm demeanor and he stepped in and said that he would swap seats with me.  i insisted that this was ridiculous, but he insisted he wanted to avoid conflict.  I generally would not accept help like this, but I made an exception this time.  Unfortunately his seat was directly across from the offender...all I could think was that this guy was just going to turn left and hit me again. Meanwhile, the flight was delayed until they could get this winner out of the bathroom.  When they did, he promptly passed back out and began to drool.  the flight attendant then wrapped his head in a blanket and that is how he stayed the entire 9.5 hours back to DC. 

I have to say, 24 hours of traveling was annoying enough, but add that to it and I could not wait to get off of that plane!!!  Did I mention it was Ethiopian Airlines?  I managed to get through customs quickly and in a relatively good mood...plus my bags had somehow miraculously made it!  Finally the travel Gods stopped laughing at me and smiled upon me!

My mom, dad, and sister surprised me with balloons and a welcome home sign.  I was quite happy to see them! That is...until I realized they had for some reason parked forever away....so after the longest 24 hours of my life, i then had to drag my bags another 20 minutes to the car.  Sure, Dad grabbed the easy rolling bag and my sister tried to help me with my duffel but it was heavy and she was in work clothes...so basically, I endured one last insult to injury.  They were all paid back by being in the car with my smelly self.

All in all, it is good to be home with Baxter (who gave me the cold shoulder the first day, but is now back to being a lover) and to get out and ride Quinn... which I did when I got home from the airport and both days since then...but I really am missing Rwanda.  I am not really ready to be back in the swing of things here.  the grocery store was overwhelming...lights and options and constant electricity was almost too much.  Took me an hour to buy a few small items because I could not focus.  Driving around all these crazy VA drivers again was an adjustment as well, although probably safer than Rwandan roads.  Stacy helped ease me into good food with a dinner at Melting Pot my first night back, and I am getting ready for Passionfish dinner with the whole family now...but really, I am missing Leon's soups and fried banannas....

ill be back Rwanda...look out....

Land of a thousand adventures

As my last week has arrived I want to take a minute to thank all of you who have supported me on so many levels with regards to this trip. Without all of your help with fundraising, planning, and of course endless advice I never could have experienced this, the first of many adventures. Your constant emails of support and comments about my blog have kept me upbeat and motivated to write even on those nights when all I want to do is fall asleep. So thank you to all of you. Thank you to everyone who is reading this blog, sharing it, or who have even given Mountain Gorillas a second thought because of my trip. I also have had requests for more shirts which will be available upon my return, just email me your request- remember all procedes go directly to MGVP!


That being said, Dr. Jan (and all of MGVP) has been a great hostess this entire trip and she made this weekend no exception. Jan took a few others and I to Rumangabo for the day. If you have not heard of Rumangabo, DRC, I highly recommend that you look it up. We were visiting the main Virunga National Park Headquarters. I also strongly encourage all my supporters to watch two DVDs…one is called "Gorilla King," which was put out by PBS and includes researchers that I have met here. "Gorilla King" will give you some insight into how amazing these gorillas really are and how similar their social structures and moods are to ours. After that you must see a National Geographic special called “Gorilla Murders.” In this documentary you can see everywhere we visited on this trip as well as people I have met/worked with. These short videos will give you all special insight into how and why MGVP is here and how important they are. I will be forcing everyone to watch these when I am home anyways, so you might as well get a head start!

As we crossed the border into Goma and waited the normal almost 30 minutes for our paperwork to be approved, there was some excellent people watching. Many bright colors adorn the women and there is no shortage of shiny shirts and pointy shoes on the men.  Finally, we hopped into the truck and headed up to Rumangabo.  The roads were pretty rough for the hour and a half ride up to park headquarters. 

The headquarters themselves were very impressive, but add to that the amazing rangers who literally risk their lives everyday to protect the gorillas and everything else within the park and it was unreal.  Jan then showed us the graveyard.  This is where the gorillas who were brutally murdered by people whom they trusted are buried.  Watching "Gorilla Murders" really brought this home. These gentle giants were simply used as politcal pawns.

Next, we made our way down a picturesque trail surrounded by Blue Monkeys, Baboons, and Colobus monkeys.  We were closing in on our goal....two very special Mountain Gorilla orphans.  I cannot do their stories justice, so please read them here: http://gorilladoctors.org/support/orphan-story-ndakasi.html and here: http://gorilladoctors.org/support/orphan-story-ndeze.html   These little girls are survivors for sure!

We spent a long time in a platform looking down on these adorable little ladies, who soaked up the attention.  I was able to get some video of them clapping, laughing, spinning around, and chasing their caretakers.  It is impossible to describe just how amazing it is to spend time around these animals.

As we headed out of DRC, we made our obligatory stop at Shopper where we are able to buy some American food....compared to home, its tiny without much variety, but compared to rice and beans in normal stores..it is heaven! We found tortillini and tomato paste and REAL mushrooms! I even found some keebler elves cookies.... Mmmmm feast later...

At the border we heard a loud comotion and turned to see a "fancy" SUV squeal to a stop behind us. Several men in "Canadian Tuxedos" ( for those who are not familiar with the term- its an all denim outfit) with dark sunglasses surrounded the car.  A well dressed man got out and the border officials working on our paperwork dropped everything to salute him.  There were some "paparazzi" which included a few disposable and a few point and shoot cameras shoving us out of the way.  I pretty much held my ground afraid to be too far from my passport in DRC.  Turns out it was the governor of that particular area.  He was very nice and told the officials to continue working on our stuff.  I have to say I do not think those guys had ever worked so efficiently!

Back at the ranch, we had a ladies evening out at Sabyino Lodge where we enjoyed the view and wine. 

We also had a chance to visit the Skeletonn Project run by Shannon at Karisoke (she is based in DC out of GW)  This is the largest collection of Mountain Gorilla bones in the world. At some point these bones will be turned over to the Rwandan government to be placed in their natural history museum.

Needless to say, I am having a multitude of random experiences here in my last week!  We decided to spend Sunday relaxing and having lunch with Julie and one of her dogs.  I went to visit Zulu our friend's South African Boerboel, since they are out of town and he is lonley. 

Today Jan set me loose in the MGVP lab which has been organized in some fashion, but still needed some help.  The challange for me was to try and organize a labful of supplies without the convenient little tupperware type containers I am used to having at my fingertips.  I am so used to being able to run out and get a specific size, but here, we are lucky to find any.  I found a few dirty dusty containers that I cleaned up, then Jan and I were actually able to track down a few large plastic containers in Musanzi.  I spent all day today in technician heaven.   The first picture is what happens when doctors work without techs.  All my tech friends take note of how much our docs need us.

I then reorganized the necropsy kit so that nobody was in danger of stabbing themselves on loose sharp items in there as well as removing the 40 hemostats and replacing them with more useful instruments.  Hopefully the lists created will help the kit stay in similar condition.

I then created a human PPE kit (personal protection equipment) so that the staff can be protected before opening the necropsy kit.

  Dont laugh at the duct tape...the drug box i organized is done with tongue depressors and duct tape ; )

I believe that is it for now! That was my weekful of random adventures and excursions!  Now I am back to packing and weighing bags.  Seems like I just went through this to come here! I cannot believe its almost over already...time has really flown by!  Ok reality...against my will I am making a beeline right for you!