Hello Everyone!
After an almost tearful goodbye to The Baxter and mom, I was off on my adventure....with 2 very overweight bags plus huge carry ons in tow. I managed to escape the extra fees by explaining that they were filled with toys and books for children :) Every once in awhile karma kicks in!
I took that as a good sign until the woman behind me on the plane complained about everything for the first 6 hours, then spent the last 8 hours of the flight vomiting...yup. As scenes from "Stand by Me" and "The Goonies" flashed in my mind, I thought for sure we were about to have a big issue, but thankfully everyone else managed to keep it together. After that, I barely made my connection in Addis (Ethiopia)where i had to go throught the most ridiculous re-check at security...let me just say that I am very glad I did not miss that connection! One other thing...shiny suits and bright shirts with matching cowboy boots are apparently all the rage. Hmm...Africa seems awesome!
When I finally arrived in Kigali, 2 unexpected things occured right off...I got through customs without an issue, and my bags made it! Not surprising, in true Andrea fashion, I got the bag cart with broken wheels and had an embarassing time wheeling out to meet Dr. Jan Ramer.
Jan was def. a sight for sore eyes, and then I met everyone else! Jan's daughter, her boyfriend, his father, and 2 doctor residents,plus Noelle our technician here were all there with their luggage to greet me as well! Kigali is about 2 hours from where I am living and they all needed to get to the airport later that day. So as we all squeezed in and I was commenting how I hope I love it here b/c I may never get on a plane again, our day's plans were announced. Since Jan's daughter had only been here a week, they were not able to do as much as they would have liked so we were first stopping at the main Genocide Memorial Museum. I have to admit I wasnt thrilled at the idea after being awake for over 20 hours, but I tried to be a trooper.
The museum was very well done. Very heavy, very sad, very informative. I have never been anywhere that something so awful had occured so recently. It was a lot to take in.
We went from there back to the airport, then to drop off the residents at a hotel, then it was off to buy tires for the truck! While Noelle was getting us a good price, we met up with a neighbor who we were giving a ride home to. He took us to the best places for bread and wine.
Kigali was a very crowded very busy city. Pedestrians do not have the right of way..the bigger you are, the less any rules apply apparently. I was amazed that nobody was killed as we weaved in and out of back streets on foot and in the truck. While we all know how I feel about busy cities, i have to say that although it was dusty, it was far from dirty. There was no litter, no garbage anywhere.
As we began the journey home to Ruhengeri, we turned away from the city and the air cleared and the mountain rose in front of us. The drive was beautiful. Scary curvy roads that people drive too fast on with people/children walking on the non-existant shoulders that lead to steep falls down the mountain. Made Snickersville Tpke look super safe! We passed an overturned bus that had evidently missed a turn in as the sun was setting.
As we curled up the road, the volcanos appeared in front of us. The most perfect view, with little cloud top hats on each one. My mind was suddenly awake and clear and I was happy to be here. I stayed awake the rest of the ride by asking Jan a million questions about everything from what drugs they use on gorillas and dogs (dex domitor and ketamine for those of my vet/tech readers) to what i will be doing, eating, etc. I felt like a child again, alive with excitment and curiousity as Jan answered all of my queries.
The compound is wonderful, gated, and gaurded by gaurds and gaurd dogs. I was warned about the front yard dog, Chewy, as he is unpredictable, yet so far, we get along just fine. There are 2 house dogs plus a backyard gaurd dog and a wheelchaired dog..so although I miss my Baxter, I am getting plenty of puppy love. No such luck on horses...i heard a rumor there are 2 in Kigali somewhere....
I feel very safe here, Molly (who lives in the same house as me) and Jan are making me feel right at home. The vibe in this country is strange. Everyone here who is over the age of 16 was involved in the genocide as either a survivor or a murderer, and I find myself searching faces (as I was assured others do as well) wondering which they are. The genocide is discussed daily, at least within my group and has really tranformed society. I cannot imagine what it must be like to have to go back living amongst those you hurt and those who hurt you. I am very interested in how this society became this way....with emotions just under the surface....
Well, that was quite a blog! They wont all be this boring and detailed I assure you but I do not want to forget clues to other stories I will want to share when I get home!
A
Saturday, June 26, 2010
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