Julie organized everything and booked us a large bus to take all 15 of us down to Kigali (2 hour drive) where we met up with our 3 safari cars (plus Julie'scar) to drive an additional 2 hours to Akagera National Park.
This park has been cut down to 1/3 of its orginal size since the war of 1994 to make room for refugees and reconciliaton. It seems very sad, but there are still many animals within the park and plenty of great views for visitors to enjoy. We paid our park fees and camping fees and set out to make a plan with our guides. We had 4 drivers and 2 guides to take us around the park. We mapped out our plan (not quite what we had wanted to do since the main road through the middle of the park was closed for repairs- but good enough) and then set out for our first camping site.
The staff set up two large tents for all the boys to share, Julie and Kasia had their own and Molly and I shared our small tent. We managed to get it all set up before dark and I got a fire going for us to cook on (yes- me!) Everything was going great until the boys accidently knocked over Molly's and my beans and mini weenies....we saved enough for a small dinner at least. Julie took over the fire after that just in time to have the boys kick a soccer ball into her pot....ok so maybe that first night wasnt as smooth as it could have been. I had been told that last time Julie and Molly camped at this spot buffalo and baboons came up next to the tents in the middle of the night but I was not fortunate enough to have this experience.
After a semi peaceful night, we were up in time to watch the sunrise and prepare for our first day of safari! I was glad for the nutella and peanut butter I bought in Kigali...nothing says good morning like nutella and peanut butter! We packed up our gear, took down the tents and loaded up the trucks to head to the northern part of the park.
My main goals for this safari were to see giraffes and hippos. We were not driving long before we came upon our first herds of animals. There were waterbucks, zebras, and giraffes! With our heads popping out the top of the safari cars, we were able to be up close and personal with all of these amazing animals. Although I have seen these animals in parks and reserves before, there is truly nothing like seeing them in their natural habitat enjoying a peaceful protected life.
We continued on throughout the day seeing much amazing wildlife and scenery andn getting very very dusty! I have to say this was one of the best days since I have been here. It was peaceful and quiet and empty! Everywhere else seems so full of people.I will admit by the end of the day, the 15 people with no shower was beginning to get to us....but camping is fun right? Molly and I did some "spot" bathing and layered on the deoderant and apologized to each other since we sleep 2 inches from one another. We then set up camp by a lake for our second night. The guide kept telling us there were no hippos in the lake....then our every astiute child Kasia said " But I just heard him!" The guide kept insisting...until one came up right next to us and grunted and shot water in the air to warn us to back off. Our ever observant guide then admitted there may be some in this lake, but they were nothing to worry about. Hmmm....at least my dinner of raman noodles went better this time around....
We slept to the surprisingly soothing grunting of the hippos and at one point I did hear them getting out of the water and splashing back in, but even when I poked my head out of the tent to see I could not really make out their bodies in the dark. Since our "guides" gave us no "guidance" I sorta assumed as long as we didnt bug them we would be fine. It is not mating season and we were not in the water so they are not supposed to be too aggressive...at least this is what I told myself ; ) As I slept I could not help but think of the contradictions of Rwanda....and place that most outsiders associate with so much hurt and ugliness and is in fact a very crowded and sometimes chaotic country also posesses some of the most serene beauty that I have come accross. I cannot imagine being angry or upset muchless murderous in the midst of such a place.
Next on the agenda was the boat tour. I was very excited to go see the hippos up close as well as the nile crocodiles and many species of birds. You all know how I feel about natural bodies of water, but I was relieved to find a large new motor boat was there to take us out.
We passed some hippos and headed out towards an island when...boom...engine died. everyone should be proud of me...there was no panic until I saw the itsy bitsy teeny wooden canoe type "boat" coming towards us to which I quickly stated my position. I was not in any way shape or form getting into that tiny piece of crap and rowing directly past the 10-15 hippos we just pissed off. No way, no how. Fortunately, this dingy was just bringing us a new battery. Phew! Meanwhile, us ladies relaxed on the boat a bit, and I enjoyed some playtime with my new favorite child.
We saw many very cool birds including several different storks, fish eagles, and many more that I never really caught onto in addition to a couple of baby nile crocs. Then it was back to the cars to make our way back through the park (stopping to see a few more baboons and other critters on the way) and make our way back home. The car and bus rides home were slowed by a lot of traffic. Campaign season began while we were in the bush and overnight there were massive billboards with Kagame on them plastering Kigali and all surrounding areas. Kagame himself was visiting little towns everyday giving speeches, and of course he was in one town we drove through which slowed everyone down. We could tell people walked for miles and miles and miles to hear their beloved president speak and many were wearing shirts bearing his likeness as well as paper visors. Our good government friend happen to be with us on the bus and he told us Kagame was coming to our town the following day and we were welcome to go hear him speak but we needed to arrive many hours ahead of time. Molly and I expressed our distaste for crowded areas but our desire for the propganda....the next afternoon we had a surprise visitor...our friend brought us Kagame campaign shirts : ) We now own a little piece of history without getting mixed up in the crowds. There is a heightened security all around and helicopters above mean he is coming behind them soon...and there are military police every 100 meters for miles around whereever Kagame is speaking. I have not heard anyone speaking against him and everything seems very peaceful and I am not at all uncomfortable...in fact, if it hadn't been so cold and rainy (yes in the "dry" season) I would have made an effort to go see him speak.
Since my return, the new vet student volunteer and I managed to get all of the medical records for the gorillas organized. For as long as the records have been done here, they have been filed either under the doctor who did the work, or under field visits instead of under each individual patient...can you imagine trying to look up a patient history by looking through all of the doctor's files from several years? We managed to get all of the ones that were already paperless (last 3-4 years) organized by what country they are in, then by what group, and then under individual gorillas. Hopefully this will help everyone in the future. Next we get to type up the records from 20 years ago and do the same thing...although many of those gorillas are no longer with us, it will help from a research point of view in the future. Glad to finally feel like I am being useful!
Time is suddenly flying by and I cannot believe I will have to head back to reality in just 12 days. I have gotten so settled and into the pace of things here, it will be strange to get back into work and school and life in general. I do have to say, I am looking forward to some Baxter snuggles and some good quality Quinn time....oh yea and having Angel sleeping on my pillow again would be nice....
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